La novella del contadino scoreggione.

Alla fine ce l’ho fatta a raggiungere il terzo dan del vino, e mi sono comprata una cultura enologica spendendo (troppi) soldi in bottiglie di ogni foggia. Mi sono fatta guidare nel mio viaggio alla scoperta dell’uva dall’unico criterio possibile: nessuno. L’intento e’ sempre stato quello di placare il ragno emotivo che vive dentro il mio stomaco e allo stesso tempo pacificare il satiro godone che ne e’ coinquilino.

Non conosco che un unico metodo di bere, ed e’ bere piu’ di quello che si dovrebbe, solo in ottima compagnia e mai se di cattivo umore. Con queste asticelle ho tirato su una casetta costruita sulla sabbia che si’, e’ vero, puo’ cascare in caso di tempesta, ma e’ da un po’ di tempo che non ci sono tifoni e fanculo chi li invoca.

Ho fatto incursioni nei Brunelli, nei Solaia, nei Tignanello, ma anche nei Potazzine e nel Bolgheri. Tu dinne uno e io probabilmente l’ho bevuto, senza lasciare da parte i Trentini e dedicandomi una bottiglia di Amarone (almeno) all’anno. Ho evitato accuratamente gli intenditori, che in genere hanno fatto un corso alla confcommercio per essere titolati a dire cose cosi’, un po’ stereotipate, e poco capiscono del bere, che e’ una scienza (filosofia) che sta al vino come il corso di danza moderna sta alla Scala di Milano.

Quindi eccomi qui, qualche migliaio di bottiglie dopo, nello studio della casina di montagna dove mi e’ permesso montare una faccia seria mentre scrivo senza che nessuno mi prenda giustamente per i fondelli o mi chieda di sistemare un smtp, con davanti un bicchiere come si deve davanti e la giornata campale dietro, con la finestra aperta sulla casetta di sotto.

Hanno una veranda fiorita, le luci giuste. E’ una casina senza pretese, ma il fuori, oh il fuori, parla da solo. Gli ospiti fanno l’orto, annacquano le piante, hanno seggiole di legno come si deve, e un tavolone coperto di bottiglie di vino. Ci vive un contadino, che si mette a cena alle sette – quindi tutti si mettono a tavola allora. Suo genero stappa una bottiglia di vino, la mette controluce e porta un calice. Ne versa un pochino. Comincia a parlare, non so cosa dice ma parla rivolto al bicchiere e so gia’ che il corso della confcommercio ha colpito di nuovo.

Lui, il padrone, invece, ha uno scatolone di vino da tavola adagiato sulla panca. Se ne versa un bicchiere di quelli graffiati e larghi, se lo ingozza senza guardare le lacrime, il colore o parlare molto. Anche perche’ dopo un minuto se ne versa un altro. Si mangia un container di pasta al pomodoro, e se ne versa un altro. Tutti parlano, e si versa l’ultimo. Poi va nel campo e si mette nel mezzo, come fanno le persone quando vogliono scoreggiare in santa pace e fanno finta di guardare qualcosa. Probabilmente scoreggia anche. Due minuti e sale su, la luce della camera resiste appena qualche secondo. Buonanotte. Di quello parlavo io, non di sangiovese in purezza.

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