State mangiando la storia di Firenze (by Consuelo)

“1293. Le continue guerre, nelle quali i fiorentini per cotanti anni erano stati occupati, aveano in gran parte tenuto oppressi i semi delle civili discordie, ma poiché i nemici pian piano s’incominciarono a condurre in tal termine,  il popolo carico della preda dei suoi avversari incominciò a volgere in sé stessa quelle armi che soleva usar contro i nemici. Essendo divenuti i suoi cittadini per le molte ricchezze superbi e per l’uso della guerra feroci,e perciò molto pronti al ferro ed al sangue , continuamente sentivansi ferite e morti, senza che la giustizia sopraffatta dalla temerità e potenza dei grandi potesse esercitare il rigore delle leggi contro dei malfattori. Ma la stessa potenza de’grandi agevolmente con scambievoli omicidi adempiva in certo modo l’ufficio della legge, ingegnandosi ogni offeso, e colle ricchezze e co’parentadi e seguaci loro di non lasciare l’offensore senza vendetta. Quel che pareva oltremodo grave a potersi tollerare, erano gli oltraggi e le ingiurie, che i grandi e nobili facevano ogni giorno contro i popolari ed impotenti, soverchiandoli non solo nella persona, ma pure nell’avere”

Fu così che anche il grande Giano Della bella, il primo vero sostenitore della nascente classe borghese, pur non appartenendole,  riuscì a strappare gli Ordinamenti di giustizia ove i Magnati, ossia i nobili, vennero esclusi dal governo di Firenze  in favore del nascente ceto borghese così ben rappresentato. I fiorentini naturalmente non capirono nulla e riuscirono a esiliarlo di lì a poco con uno dei violenti tumulti di piazza a loro così cari.

Firenze  non è per niente quella città di rinascimentale armonia che mostrano i depliant turistici. E’ una severa, a tratti cupa, città medievale. Dentro le sue mura può dare un fastidioso senso di disagio e insicurezza, dapprima sembra tutto tranquillo, semplice. Solo turisti. Poi spariti anche quelli l’aria diventa infida come quelle sue case antiche, torri chiuse, tutte spigoli, superbe, che ti invitano ad allontanarti, o certe stradine buie tortuose strette tra palazzi severi che sembrano fortezze o piuttosto prigioni.

Firenze può apparire brutale come quando d’inverno l’Arno è giallo e scorre scomposto trascinando alberi secchi e carogne stecchite tra le sponde che fanno fatica a contenerlo.

E ti sembra che sotto la città scorra un altro fiume invisibile in continua ebollizione, un fiume di  magma infuocato fatto di violenza e crudeltà che ogni tanto, nei secoli passati, riusciva ad aprirsi un cratere e gettare fuori la lava che poi si solidificava e assumeva spesso forme sublimi. Sotto la Loggia dei Lanzi in Piazza della Signoria per esempio la violenza si è raggrumata e pietrificata e si fa ammirare e fotografare, camuffatasi in arte, come una galleria ineguagliata di strupri, omicidi, ostentazione di teste mozzate, come il Perseo di Cellini”.

Firenze fuori dall’agiografia da stamperia di cartoline è città che ha elevato la violenza ad arte, una vecchia baldracca imbellettata terribilmente snob, che soddisfa la sua lussuria in conventicole di pervertiti d’alto bordo, tra logge massoniche deviate dedite ai riti satanici e trafugamenti di cadaveri a scopo rituale nei principali cimiteri della città. I suoi profeti e i suoi uomini migliori Firenze  o li ha esiliati o li ha uccisi, Firenze ha la prerogativa del più alto numero di omicidi rituali irrisolti al mondo, e quella sua apparenza signorile nasconde un’anima nerissima, ammesso che l’anima esista.

Il cibo simbolo di una città simile non può che essere un piatto di visceri, e curiosamente visceri che fuori dalla cerchia delle mura fiorentine non trovano cittadinanza in nessun piatto edibile da umano. Sia la Scozia e il suo haggis che la Sardegna e la cordedda, anche questi allegre zuppette o arrosti di budella ovine, affondano nella storia e trovano un fondamento logico nella tradizione pastorale di un popolo.

Si deve quindi pensare che a Firenze il lampredotto sia altrettanto simbolicamente legato agli sbudellamenti di piazza tanto cari ai fiorentini, da quello nobilissimo di Giuliano De’ Medici in giù. James Ivory, snob tra gli snob, ha sentito il bisogno di iniziare un eccellente affresco fiorentino come Camera con Vista con uno sventramento in Piazza della Signoria.

Naturalmente il genius loci ha saputo trasformare l’umilissimo abomaso bovino in una squisita pietanza, che fa bella mostra di se sui banchi marmorei dei trippai di San Lorenzo insieme ad altro campionario di macelleria, raro altrove, come la poppa, la matrice, i nervetti.

Si prenda un treno qualsiasi da qualsiasi luogo d’Italia e s’arrivi alla stazione di Santa Maria Novella. Si renda grazie mentalmente un minutino per l’abbattimento della pensilina stucchevole di Toraldo di Francia che sconciava uno dei pochi capolavori assoluti dell’architettura moderna poi ci si insacchi nel sottopassaggio con lo stesso animo con cui la  turista inglese di E. M. Forster, baedecker alla mano, si infilava nei vicoli fiorentini per annusare l’afrore dei cafoni e destare la vita sotto la gonna inamidata.

Il sottopassaggio della stazione di Firenze è più significativo in fatto di odore indigeno della pluricentenaria Officina Santa Maria Novella e della sua polvere d’iris. Si riemerge verso via Nazionale in un tumulto sudicio e trafficato e poi alla prima a destra si svolta verso il mercato coperto di San Lorenzo. Traversato indenni il mercato ambulante, regno della cineseria seriale ci si infili nel mercato coperto e si inizi a respirare.

Una giratina pre prandiale è d’obbligo, è un piacere immenso anche solo camminare sul vecchio pavimento irregolare e incementato, e osservare i banchi vecchi con le tarsie marmoree indenni da miscellanea di geometra innamorato della ceramica sassuolese.

Nell’angolo a destra dell’entrata principale si trova il nostro approdo la tripperia Nerbone. Ci si disponga in fila disciplinatamente insieme alla più varia umanità. La cosa più bella è frequentarla la mattina presto insieme ai beoni che scolano il primo gotto mattutino con le guance rubizze, appoggiati, o meglio puntellati, ai vecchi tavoli di marmo bianco. Si mangia in pace, nessuno sgomita, il panino con il lampredotto per la sua umilissima consistenza era la colazione del popolino e nessuno s’adonta se lo preferite al croissant.

Se lo frequentate a pranzo dovete sopportare la vicinanza stretta dell’avvinazzato come del biondo aitante canadese a gennaio con pantaloncini corti e infradito che vi interroga su cosa sia quel piatto impronunciabile. Le teglie dove sobbolle lentissimamente il nostro piatto sono da tempo immemore gestite da Alessandro, cacciatore di cinghiali parco di parole quanto lesto nella movenza, dispensatore gentile del panino divino. Fatelo bagnare con il brodo di cottura, fateci mettere le salse fateci all’amore lentamente con quel panino. State mangiando la storia di Firenze, fatta in primis di odi e passioni viscerali.

  • Storia della Toscana compilata in sette epoche distribuita dal Cavaliere Francesco Inghirami Firenze, 1842.
  • Mario Spezi  Undici delitti in attesa di verità, Milano 2008
  • James Ivory “A room with a view” 1986 film / E. M. Forster “A room with a view” 1908 romanzo
  • Stazione di Santa Maria Novella Firenze, monumento nazionale architetto Giovanni Michelucci
  • Trattoria da Nerbone, mercato coperto di san Lorenzo aperto solo a pranzo.

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